A thin mist swirls through an enchanted forest of lichen-draped trees. Hundreds of metres below, a hazy expanse of savannah dips towards an oval lake whose edges shimmer pink with countless fl amingos. As the mist dissipates, an ant-like formation is revealed weaving slowly across the grassland: A herd of hundreds upon hundreds of wildebeest setting off on its daily perambulations. Another day is breaking over Africa’s most spectacular natural arena: the Ngorongoro Crater